Sunday, October 19, 2014


Another magical day. Hard to even put it into words.

Yumi made the call, and the call was a good one. Everywhere else was closing out, and we fell right into peeeeeling tapered lefts and rights, based on her check.

Had the camera, but only bashed out just a couple of frames before grabbing the Big Noserider and paddling out.

What can I say?

Everything else except those two top images is from after the wind swung around and I came in.

But it was still clearly fun as hell, and there was no end of friends and strangers, all encouraging each other, all going for it, all having a blast.


Sunday, October 19, 2014


And after coming in, hanging on the beach, talking story, this little bitty girl shows up and just starts murdering it.

The top five frames in this column are a sequence.

Take note of that turn she's doing in frame number two in this column!

Her and her dad finally came in and were just as nice as could be.

The stoke was so thick in the air that you could have cut it with a knife.

So was the magic, now that I think about it.

Thanks for making the right call, Yumi.