Saturday, May 14, 2016


Kinda surprising what a piddly 1.6 at 8 seconds can yield up, sometimes.

Damn near missed it, too. Almost didn't stop and look at it.

This isn't all so very far from where I grew up, and the bottom irregularities at this place oftentimes make for a wave that kind of "jumps around" as it hits the highs and lows going over the successive shelves of coquina that underly things hereabouts.

But every once in a while, the sand fills in "just so" and the highs and lows are altered into a marvelous configuration where the wave develops these irregularities that actually enhance things, and today was one of those days.

Some of the funnest, and some of the most technical (which is a word I don't really like as a descriptor for anything regarding surfing, but I can not come up with a better substitute for describing today's rides, so I'm going with it), noserides I've had the pleasure of experiencing in a pretty good while.











Saturday, May 14, 2016


Checked it with the camera, and struck up a conversation with a guy who works for SpaceX, and as we talked, and the camera clicked, these sets would roll through every once in a while, and there was nobody around. Literal open water for a proper half mile, to the north, and to the south.

I put the camera away, and paddled out, and got to ride this stuff alone, and believe me, the camera fails miserably when it comes to capturing the true nature of these waves.

Eventually, my buddy paddled out, we exchanged greetings, and then he and I maintained a goodly distance from one another, and as each set arrived at our chosen location, each of us was free as a bird to move to, catch, and ride whatever wave we deemed best out of that set. No one else ever showed up.

It was very nice.

Note to kooks and "social" surfers: If you see a guy sitting with a literal half mile of empty water to either side of him, please do not think that he's lonely and would appreciate your company, ok? He's trying to avoid you, and people like you, and really, that's a HALF MILE of open water over there. Kindly take your liar's smile, your trollish sense of humor, and your breathtaking lack of skill down the beach, ok? Not all of us share your enthusiasm for bunching up in a group, getting in each other's way, and prattling endlessly about stupid things for the entire time we're in the water.

Thank you for your consideration.