1970's Surfing Photos from Hawaii - Page 2

Used to be, you could just walk into people's backyards on the point at Waimea, and just hang out and watch. Nobody seemed to mind, and nobody trashed the place, so it was all good. Apparently, you can't do that anymore. Note five guys on the wave, riding. 1973 or 1974

That's me riding Kammieland, 1973 or so. Kammie's is a really fun wave on small north swells, but just as soon as it starts to get any size, the rip coming over from Sunset tears it to pieces and that's the end of that. By this time I was living in a house with this wave right in the back yard, so I tended to ride it fairly often when it was clean.

James MacLaren, cutting quite the dashing pose on the beach at Sunset Beach, 1973 or so.

Me at small Pipe, '73 or 4 or thereabouts. As I recall, this was not a particularly excellent day, with a lot of wind. Just a few folks out riding. I never liked Pipeline. The place just never suited me. Probably 'cause I can't ride backside for shit.

The break at Kammieland, viewed from the back yard of the "long house" where I stayed in early 1973.